When we print our images for stretching we print an outline border about 4 cm from the edge of the picture's front face. We do this so that we can see how even the print is over the frame even though it is face down under the frame as we are stapling it.
We place the picture square in the middle of the frame and start stapling it. First we pick the middle of each side, stapling it down with a mild tensionabout 1-2 cm from the edge. These staples will be covered later with backing tape. I prefer to use a slight angle for the stapler so that each staple is not grabbing the same weave in the canvas which would otherwise promote fraying.
Gradually work your way to the corners, applying only one or two staples per side. Work on opposite sides to keep an even tension throughout the work. Dont pull too tight as the stretch you get at that point will detract from other sides of the frame. This is especially important where there are straight lines in the image which would be distorted by uneven tension in the canvas.
It is a hard to describe how we do the corners. I don't like to cut the canvas so we fold the canvas over at the corners in such a way as to reduce stress on the point of the corner. Avoid the temptation to pull the canvas over the corner - it will cause cracking of the ink and will eventually fail. Not nice. Some people prefer "invisible corners" but we don't do it unless specifically requested.
Showing posts with label stretch canvas print. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stretch canvas print. Show all posts
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Stretch canvas 1: preparation
Canvas printed in our system should be carefully handled as inkjet print can be quite sensitive to rough treatment. Your circumstances might be different to ours but I cannot stress enough the importance of a neat, clean work environment. We have often damaged an expensive (usually large) print because some invisible smear of foreign substance has scratched the print surface. Varnished prints will be less sensitive but a piece of grit or glass from a previous job WILL go unnoticed until you have come within 10 seconds of completing the perfect piece.
When our work area is cleared up we lay a protective covering over the work surface. I like to use 5mm thick Fome-Cor as it is soft enough to absorb bumps when you drop a corner on to it by mistake. It is smooth and dirt is easy to spot. It is also non slip without being rough enough to abrade the canvas surface. It is not a negligible cost though, and you may prefer to use a clean blanket which will do a similar job.
If you are using this surface for more than one job in a day then take care that you do not dirty it because of casual neglect. In the course of assembling your stretched canvas you will handle: glue; staples; trimming tools such as scissors and knives; sawdust and possibly splinters from the stretch frame; gum from the backing tape; sharp screws and a host of pointy, hard edged tools.
When our work area is cleared up we lay a protective covering over the work surface. I like to use 5mm thick Fome-Cor as it is soft enough to absorb bumps when you drop a corner on to it by mistake. It is smooth and dirt is easy to spot. It is also non slip without being rough enough to abrade the canvas surface. It is not a negligible cost though, and you may prefer to use a clean blanket which will do a similar job.
If you are using this surface for more than one job in a day then take care that you do not dirty it because of casual neglect. In the course of assembling your stretched canvas you will handle: glue; staples; trimming tools such as scissors and knives; sawdust and possibly splinters from the stretch frame; gum from the backing tape; sharp screws and a host of pointy, hard edged tools.
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